6th to 8th January, 2023

Long on my list of places to visit but never before actually reached, was Jaffna in the far North of Sri Lanka.  For many years off-limits during the civil war, this part of the nation quite unlike the rest can now be safely visited again so David and I set off to do so, rounding off his time with us.

We dropped off his son George and wife Anna at the airport en route, and then continued for the eight hours or so it took to cover the 260 miles / 420 km.  The final third of the journey is very flat and barely above sea level and with very little traffic in complete contrast to the earlier segment.  Whilst some of the road was quite new, much was in an apalling state of repair that along with delapidated buildings and evidence of poverty gave the impression that this part of the island is forgotten about in relative terms, compared to the wealthier South. 

During our trip we were to learn on the reliance on India and its Tamil community just over the water for much of what investment there is.  We also learned more about the war, reinforced by doing so at the sites of some of what we’d read at the time in the news – None more-so than the various battles to take control of the strategically vital Elephant Pass.  With the flat, exposed narrow strips of land surrounded by water, landmines and booby traps it is no wonder that both sides lost so many here.  Standing on the slight rise of the memorial you can see below in the image fourth from from the end was a sobering thought irrespective of which political side seen-from.

There was also much other evidence of Jaffna’s troubled past but shining through was the kindness and respect of the people; whether it be politely asking for a photo with David or me, spotlessly attired school children, care taken to ensure we enjoyed our time out and about or the pride taken in cooking local food for us, it didn’t matter; kindness and respectd were in abundance.

Since enjoying it many years ago in Colombo I have wanted to taste Jaffna Mud Crab Curry in Jaffna itself and was not disappointed; David and I had taken a couple of rooms at a small four bedroom villa so decided to eat there both evenings.  On learning of my wish, the lady cook excelled with what she produced and stood quitely beaming as I enjoyed it to the max.  Hot, fiery and yet with layer upon layer of taste and aroma it was an exquisite delight.  Fresh too, the crabs having been landed just a few hours previously.

Steve