After a fabulous time together in Krnov, 11am on 17th July saw Misa and me readying the motorcycle for our long ride back to the UK. Half an hour later saw us in the town square enjoying a last minute ice cream each with Rennie and Emi – and then by pure coincidence, our friends Martin, Niki and Adam turning up. A lovely farewell and bon voyage.

Departing under a blue sky vs heavy clouds and torrential rain that had heralded our arrival, I suggested to Misa that we take the detour over the Jeseniky mountains and enjoy the fabulous stretch of well-surfaced road 11 from Šumperk to Bruntál that had been a skating rink in the other direction. He agreed, and what a great decision it was! Just magical, and we couldn’t wish for more – but little did we know what lay ahead to lift the bar even higher.

Our overnight stop was in Steyer having gone as deeply in to Austria as we comfortably could, the initial flat area being of less interest than the mountains we knew we’d be crossing especially as I had set the satnav to avoid motorways. A tasty Maccy-D each (veggie for Misa) was enjoyed whilst we planned where to stay and a few minutes later we were rocking up outside a spotlessly clean and very welcoming family-run hotel. We were in fact so quick that the reservation arrived as we walked through the door! Food and drinks in the quiet garden preceded an early night in turn followed by a good night’s sleep and a 7am breakfast. Next stop, Arlberg.

Avoiding the motorway was the right decision, but once the mountains started and with this the inability of towns and villages to have bypasses, gosh did it get frustrating. We seemed to spend hour after hour squirting past traffic to get a few minutes of flowing run before being caught up in the next snake of trucks and cars. Never mind, at least the weather and countryside was lovely and with the intercom we could natter as we went.

Our Arlberg hotel was booked during lunch, and on arriving at about 6pm Misa asked if we could dump the luggage and take a run over the Arlberg Pass that’d we’d been looking forwards to. Of course – so we did. I have driven it multiple times and ridden it once on the motorbike back in June of 2008 (in falling snow), and it never fails to impress. Fantastic fun, and after a delightful alfresco dinner at the Après Post Hotel in Stuben, it was time to ride back over – this time starting straight in to the steeply climbing hairpins on tyres that had cooled down whilst we ate (so extra care), before the sweeping run down the other side to Arlberg itself. Even a grumpy filling station attendant couldn’t spoil our lovely evening.

Would it surprise you that after an early breakfast in order to be out before traffic, we went over the pass on our way to Switzerland but having reached Stuben the other side, turned round, rode back to Arlberg – and then back to Stuben again! The bike has wonderfully flowing handling and plenty of poke and it was an absolute joy to be able to sweep along in uninterrupted manner, and then if we did come across another vehicle to be past it and on our way again in a heartbeat. The bar had just been lifted higher – but there was even more to come!

Switzerland was reached via Liechtenstein and the completely flat valley across to Gams – but then it got interesting. Very interesting. The only reason we took this route was the sat nav avoiding motorways on our way to Baden but we came across the best motorcycling road I have ever enjoyed; the steep and flowing climb that is the Wildhaus Pass. The best of the best, on steroids – so now would it surprise you that having reached the top, Misa asked if we could ride down and back up again – so we did, and after a breather for cold water in the stifling heat, we rode it yet again. Misa’s expletive of happiness on reaching the summit for the third time said it all in how we felt. Priceless time and experience together, the bike shrugging off the weight of two guys and heavy luggage like a cloak.

Two nights were spent in Baden to allow a full day in Zurich with our dear friend Rosemary, her daughters and grandchildren. Starting and ending with a journey on impressive Swiss railways – an object lesson in cleanliness and punctuality in the same league as Japan – Misa impressed me in being on form, happy to walk miles in the baking heat, visiting churches and famous places, building his knowledge and being the great company to everyone that he is. I wondered how many other 15 year old boys would do this, and complimented him thus. A few ice creams cooled things down and a well-timed dinner in the Zeughauskeller (an ammunition store dating back to 1487) avoided the only rain.

From Baden we rode to Arras to allow Misa to reinforce his knowledge of the first and second world wars; 12 hours riding in one go, but more of this and the rest of our trip in several posts to follow.  Until then, a short video from the ride on some nice empty (if sometimes rutted and broken) road in Alsace.

Steve