29th December, 2021

I concluded the previous blog post by saying that our time in Kumana National Park ended with a surprise experience that nobody, safari first-timers or not, would forget.

The sun was already setting and we were making our way along the very bumpy track as quickly as we reasonably could.  This was in order to be out by sunset itself when the overnight curfew commences and by law the animals have their natural environment to themselves, undisturbed by human activity.  I had just commented that my only disappointment of the day was the absence of leopard for our visitors to experience when not thirty second later as the track gently curved back to the left and up an incline, we were presented with a nearly full-grown adult sprawled out in front of us!  The image above sets the scene on the rising track.

As we came abruptly to a halt and looked on in stunned silence, the leopard nonchalantly turned its head to gaze in our direction before turning back as if we weren’t present.  Niki made us laugh though by getting young Adam’s attention by saying in the Czech language as she pointed, “Look, Adam.  A big cat.  Meow!”.

Over the next few minutes it casually went about preening itself with no intention at all of moving and we were then presented with a challenge; how to leave the park in time to avoid an interview without tea and biscuits and the prospect of a fine and ban for our driver?  We were going to be late anyway as by now the sun had set and it was getting properly dark, but we didn’t want to arrive in full darkness and incur the described wrath.

Keeping our limbs well within the vehicle we drove right up to the leopard before it looked up at us one final time and as casually as all along, rose to its feet and sauntered off to our right.  After pausing behind a tree to check its surroundings, it meandered off down the track without a further look back.  It was gone, and we still had the hairs on the back of our necks stood up through this closest of close encounters.  Amazing.

Looking at the photographs I had taken we could see what a hard life it actually is being a leopard and having to kill for your food; although still relatively young this one is already pretty battle scarred.

Eventually we reached the park exit, now in the pitch black of night and as required having driven down the narrow and bumpy track without lights.   Still with no lights on at the exit and with the exit area in total darkness too, it was a surreal experience.  It was clear we were going to be in deep trouble, especially as the exit barrier was locked firmly down.  Oh dear.  As expected there was a definite interview without tea and biscuits for our driver.  I won’t write the outcome here as this blog is in the public domain, but eventually we were free to leave and endure yet another 9.5 miles (15 kilometres) of being thoroughly tossed around in the back of a Mahinda Bolero on crude leaf spring suspension on a completely unmade track, before we were back on a metalled surface for the easy drive back to Arugam Bay.

We were all filthy dirty from the dust and exhausted from the excitement and continual bracing for the bumps, but what a truly fantastic, unforgettable time we’d had.  Adam, not yet three years old, had been amazing and tolerated it all for the enthralling moments he’d had.  Although back in the sandy environment of cabanas on the beach, the showers we each took were wonderfully refreshing, as was sitting quietly with a drink whilst we recalled the day.

For the photographers:  This was the first time I’d put my Canon R5’s eye tracking focus to the test in low light and found it incredible.  With the truck rocking merrily through eight people all trying to get a view it made all the difference as I could concentrate on stability and framing without worry about keeping the focus hair on the eye nearest the camera as well; with back button focus depressed with my thumb, the camera did it for me with unerring accuracy and not a single miss each time I pressed the shutter with my forefinger.  I was also impressed with how the R5 and 5D mk IV have handled the very high ISO that was necessary to shoot with shutter speeds fast enough to stop blurred images, and likewise with the detail and colour saturation that has been preserved in the rapidly decaying light.  Apart from the eye focus I used each camera manually so that I was in control and am thrilled with the results.

I hope that you enjoy living the moment with us.

Steve